“Fashion is everyday theater,” says Tony Award-winning costumier and fashion designer Bob Mackie, who, at 85, is experiencing a career renaissance. He is still designing clothes for Cher, starring in the new Bob Mackie: Naked Illusion documentary about this life and work, and auctioning off some sketches, historical memorabilia and costumes for Cher, Raquel Welch, Diana Ross, and Diahann Carrol at Julien’s Auction.
“I love doing the work” is how he explained his extraordinary career longevity to fashion insider Fern Mallis at their 92 Y Talk. Bob was joined on stage by Tony Award-winning actress Bernadette Peters, Tony Award Winning costume designer Gregg Barnes, Bob Mackie Design Director Joe McFate, and documentarian Matthew Miele.
“We have been approached to do another documentary, ” said Joe McFate when Fern asked about what led them to make this new documentary with Matthew Miele. However, Matthew’s approach to filming the documentary first and then worrying about selling and distributing it later synced the deal. After watching the film, one can assume that Bob Mackie and Joe McFate are executive producers and have final cut approval. Bob’s professional and personal conflicts are glaring omissions.
During their interview, Bob Mackie admitted that Carmen Miranda, her ruffles and platform shoes, and the film American in Paris fueled his interest in designing costumes as a child.
Bubbly Bernadette Peters said Bob Mackie is great at what he does because ‘you trust him’ as a performer. While working on the Carol Burnett show, she remembered how Bob would watch her scene run through to get ideas and often would come up with costume suggestions to help elevate the comedy with a sight gag. She admitted Bob Mackie has a great sense of humor, beauty, and sensuality; above all, he has taste. That’s what sets him apart and makes him so successful.
Costume Designer Gregg Barnes stole everyone’s heart in the audience, sharing fond memories of Bob Mackie. Bob Mackie mentored Gregg as a teenager about being a costume designer. Gregg recalled that Bob had given him advice that had guided him throughout his career. He said to be curious and kind and do the work to succeed in the business. Gregg alluded that Bob Mackie represents the LGBTQ+ legacy of creative geniuses in the arts.
Director Matthew Miele also directed Scatter My. Ashes At Bergdorf’s and Always At The Carlyle had plenty of material to work from when making the two-hour Naked Truth documentary. At times, the film could be more cohesive. Bob’s origin story is scattered throughout the movie at the oddest times. The viewer is left filling in the blanks regarding Bob Mackie’s personal life. Bob Mackie is guarded and tight-lipped. He can barely admit to being involved with his business partner, Ray Aghayan, an American fashion and costume designer, after his divorce from singer and actress LuLu Porter.
Ray played a pivotal role in Bob’s career. He introduced Bob to Mitzi Gaynor, who hired him as the costume designer for her TV show, which kicked off his career as a costume designer.
Sadly, Ray died in 2011, so Joe McFate is tasked with pulling personal details about their relationship from Bob in a very awkward scene. LuLu appears briefly in the film but never discloses any information about their romance, marriage, or enduring relationship. I would have enjoyed hearing her discuss how their sixty-year relationship transitioned from lovers and spouses to best friends and grandparents.
Sadly, LuLu and Bob are unable to discuss the death of the son, Robin Mackie, who died in 1993 after a history of substance abuse. Their inability to discuss their son sitting at a table with Robin’s daughter is uncomfortable to watch. Although it feels intrusive for Matthew to pry, you can tell he’s desperate to make Bob Mackie less one-dimensional. I was rooting for Matthew to crack the code and get Bob to discuss his son’s death. This tragedy, coupled with his lonely childhood with a despondent mother and hyper-masculine father, seems to fuel his undying desire to masterfully help audiences escape their grim lives and journey into a world of beauty and spectacle.
If there’s more to Bob Mackie’s life than his work, your guess is a good as mine which is a shame. Younger generations have little or no respect for the previous generation’s closeted lives because no one who lived that lifestyle can articulate their struggle. Bob Mackie and other successful gay and bisexual men, Rock Hudson, were forced to live in secret to keep their careers. Unfortunately, their pain, suffering, and struggles sound cliche without personal reflections, insights, and disclosures. People who love Bob Mackie may hate his documentary for not revealing more about his process or his romantic life.
Younger LGBTQ+ viewers, especially, might be disappointed in Matthew and Bob’s inability to discuss his personal life or disclose how his sexuality influenced his work beyond Bob’s midwestern crack about fashion and costume design fields being populated by gay men. Bob is part of the long history of gay and bisexual men creating glamor and feminine allure on screen.
Thankfully, Gregg Barnes masterfully helps the audience connect from the mega-musicals at MGM, Bob’s creations for the Carol Burnett Show, to his stage designs for the Kinky Boots musical. Watching the documentary, you get the sense that CAMP is not going anywhere and, like Cher and cockroaches, will survive long after the rest of us are gone.
Strangely, although Bob Mackie resists and seems to resent being associated as the Master of CAMP, the film opens and closes with Bob, John McFate, and Bob’s publicist attending the MET ‘What is CAMP?” Gala 2019. Yet, Naked Truth does not disappoint sparkle, sequin, rhinestone, and CAMP overs.
The film gives us a glimpse into Bob’s design process and the incredible work of his team of LA-based beaders for Cher’s ABBA-inspired outfit worn on multiple TV appearances. It also treats us to a glorious feast of Bob Mackie’s most iconic CAMP moments for television working with the 70’s most prominent female stars, Cher and Carol Burnett. Carol testifies that Bob’s best-known design, the Scarlett O’Hara dress for the Gone With The Wind sketch, brilliantly captures his wicked sense of humor and superb craftsmanship.
Carol Burnett mentions that Bob Mackie made 1700 costumes while working on her show. Cher admitted in the film that people tuned in to see Bob’s designs for her opening sequences on the Sonny & Cher Show and The Cher Show. Vicki Lawrence said she ran over from the Carol Burnett Show to stand in the wings of the next door Sound stage to see what Cher wore week after week.
The film includes numerous live performances and interviews with divas like Tina Turner, Bette Midler, Mitzi Gaynor, Miley Cyrus, and P!nk in Bob Mackie designs.
